The Independent Travel Guide to Tanzania

The great wildebeest migration thunders across the Serengeti. A lion’s roar echoes through the vast emptiness of the Ngorongoro crater. The snow atop Mt Kilimanjaro glistens under another African sunrise, and as the sun sets in Zanzibar the sky is washed in glorious pink and orange. One country is lucky enough to be home to all of this. It is the best of Africa, condensed. It is Tanzania.

The Highlights

The highlights of any trip to Tanzania are well known – Mt Kilimanjaro; Serengeti and Ngorongoro; Zanzibar; and the Swahili Coast, from Kisongo in the south to Tanga in the north. Kilimanjaro, the roof of Africa, is a challenging, though ultimately achievable hike, while the Serengeti and Ngorongoro are two of the most stunning national parks in Africa (and at the time of publication, entrance fees are less than half the price of Kenya’s Maasai Mara). Meanwhile, Zanzibar and the Swahili Coast boast some of East Africa’s best beaches, nightlife, and diving spots.

As an independent traveller Tanzania’s premier attractions can be expensive. The best way to minimise costs is to arrange tours on arrival. In Arusha and Moshi there are plenty of local companies and independent guides, and trips to national parks can be arranged with just a few days’ notice. Meanwhile, ferries to Zanzibar run daily from Dar es Salaam. Booking a trip in-country allows the flexibility to create your own itinerary, and importantly, more of your money stays in Tanzania.

Outside the major attractions there is much to explore in Tanzania. The lake regions of Mwanza, Kigoma, and Mbeya, as well as the mountainous region of Iringa, are ideal destinations to escape the tourist trail. These less touristed regions offer a window into everyday life, and you will be embraced by some of Africa’s most laid back and welcoming people.

The western region of Tanzania, near the Burundian border

Tanzania’s 70 million people are some of the most culturally diverse in Africa. The coastal areas are predominantly Muslim, following centuries of trade with the Gulf and Kiswahili is largely influenced by Arabic. Venture inland and you will discover animist beliefs blended with Christianity, and it is not uncommon to see traditional healers spruiking their wares on street corners. The Maasai tribe are the most prominent indigenous group, while the Hadza and Akie in the northern regions maintain traditional ways of living. Tanzania also has an Indian population of around 50,000 who trace their roots back to the Gujarat region of India.

A ‘medicine man’ on the streets of Arusha

While food and drink are not obvious highlights in Tanzania, there are some gems to be found including the pub staple chipsi mayai (chip omelette), nyama choma (roast meat), tilapia fish, pilau, and thanks to the Indian influence, chai and chapati.

The Lowlights

There is little to dislike about Tanzania, and what there is, is relatively minor.

As an independent traveller, riding public transport can sometimes feel like a slog. Distances can feel longer by frequent stops at towns between destinations, while the quality of buses and roads varies greatly throughout the country.

A road trip in southern Tanzania, on the way to Malawi

In tourist hubs like Arusha, Moshi, and Stone Town touts can often be annoyingly persistent, and a ‘mzungu tax’ applies to almost everything from bus tickets and taxis to street food and souvenirs. Be prepared to barter hard.

Finally, as part of any safari tour, you are likely to be taken to an overpriced souvenir shop or exorbitantly priced restaurant. At other times you may have Maasai dancers perform or visit a ‘Maasai village.’ These side trips and add-ons may be annoying and cringy, but it’s how the system works, and there’s no avoiding it.

How safe is Tanzania?

Tanzania is one of Africa’s safest countries, and travellers who observe the usual precautions should be fine. In Arusha, Stone Town, and on the beaches of Zanzibar, there are plenty of scammers and touts however they are more of a nuisance than a threat. See below for some useful phrases in Kiswahili to handle their approaches. The risk of pickpocketing exists in crowded areas like markets and bus stations, so keep your valuable secure and close by.

As with most of Africa, the greatest danger is on the roads. Tanzania’s highways, while on the improve, are often potholed, and drivers frequently push the limits on speed and fatigue. In cities, riding in matatus (minivan taxis) is a must do experience, even if they are often overcrowded and derelict. Meanwhile, tuk-tuks and moto taxis carry the same warnings are anywhere else in the world.

Top 5 Independent Travel Tips

Learn Kiswahili: Kiswahili became the national language upon independence and is spoken throughout the country. While package tourists can get by with English and a handful of Kiswahili, independent travellers will benefit from learning more than the basics. As a phonetic language that uses the English alphabet, the basics of Kiswahili are easy to grasp.

Go with the flow: African time is real, and Tanzanians embrace it wholly. Time is a flexible notion throughout Tanzania, especially on the coast, and to make it easier for yourself, just go with the flow. Embrace the delays and always travel with a book.

Book upon arrival: Tours to all of Tanzania’s major attractions can be booked upon arrival. If time allows, I recommend doing this. By booking in-country and with an independent operator, you will save hundreds of dollars and more of your money will stay in Tanzania.

Some guides that I have personal experience with and recommend are:

Guido Massawe: My guide when I summitted Kilimanjaro in 2018. Guido and I catch up whenever I visit Arusha and he is always looking for new clients.
Martin Mutalemo: I met Martin on Couchsurfing and stayed with him and his family for a week in 2026. He works for a tour company and is experienced with hiking and safaris.
Elizabeth Dominick: I’ve known Elizabeth for 15 years and supported her younger sister to complete secondary school. Elizabeth now runs a spa and tour company in Zanzibar.

If you would like to get in touch with anyone, send me a message to receive their WhatsApp.

Swahili time: Stay in Tanzania long enough and you will learn that people operate in Swahili time rather than Western time. Dawn, which is always at 6:00am is zero hours, and 7:00am is one o’clock in the morning, 8:00am is two o’clock in the morning, and so on. Using an analogue clock, Swahili time reflects the opposite number.

Barter hard: As one of Africa’s most popular tourist destinations, Tanzania is awash with souvenirs, knickknacks and keepsakes. Some of the ‘first prices’ are laughably high, and you should be prepared to barter hard. Alternatively, seek out local organisations that sell items as part of fundraising for community projects. It is also worth checking the price of bus tickets with a local, as sometimes ‘mzungu tax’ can be applied.

Useful Kiswahili phrases

Every visitor to Tanzania will pick up some basic Kiswahili – jambo (hello), habari (how are you), karibu (welcome), and asante (thank you). Meanwhile, anyone who has seen The Lion King, will know simba (lion), rafiki (friend), pumba (stupid), and hakuna matata (though nobody says that in Tanzania, they say hamna shida). For independent travellers, here are some other words than may come in handy.

Jina langu si Mzungu: My name is not Mzungu. Any white person in Tanzania will quickly become familiar with hearing Mzungu. It can be tiring, and I have found this phrase helpful in breaking down the tourist barrier. Nicer alternatives that you can ask to be called include bwana (sir), kaka / dada (brother / sister), rafiki (friend), or mze (old man, but respectful).

Shikamoo: A respectful greeting when meeting an older person. The reply is marahaba.

Mwizi: Thief. Hopefully you don’t need it, but it’s useful to know.

Sitaki: I don’t like it / I don’t want it. This phrase is helpful if touts are being persistent, or if you’re eating something and don’t like it.

Choo: Toilet, pronounced with one O; not like the sound of a train.

Toka: Go away / piss off. Use this one sparingly, as it can be rude depending on how forcefully you deliver it. Keep it in your back pocket for the most annoying touts or drunks.

If you are interested in learning more about Tanzania you can purchase my book ‘Everything All of the Time,’ on BookBaby or Amazon. The book documents my two years living in Arusha where I managed a women’s education program, as well as journeys through East and West Africa.

If you have other tips for travelling in Tanzania, please share in the comments below.

The Independent Travel Guide to Tanzania

Once is enough